Although we produce "high end" Performance and Race engines with expensive parts, we also produce more economical engines that use one or more of the stock OE parts such as block, crank, rods, heads, oil pan, etc. These engines can produce amazing horsepower and give good long service when "done right". We have the ability to accomplish this because of knowledge and experience gained from decades of racing under basically "stock" type rules and regulations of the various sanctioning organizations.
Our Performance Crate engines receive new high Quality internal components such as performance valves, forged or hypereutectic pistons(when available), moly rings, brass expansion plugs, premium rod and main bearings, cam bearings, pushrods, valve springs, rocker studs, hydraulic lifters, rocker arms, timing chain set, and a specially chosen and dyno proven performance camshaft, often of our design.
We use the highest quality brand parts such as ACL, B&B, BULLET, COMP CAMS, CLEVITE, CLOYES, DURA-BOND, EAGLE, EDELBROCK, ELGIN, FEDERAL MOGUL, FEL-PRO, HASTINGS, HOLLEY, JESEL, K-LINE, LUNATI, MAHLE, MANLEY, MELLING, PERFECT CIRCLE, PIONEER, PROBE, RHS (Racing Head Service), SCAT, SEALED POWER (Speed-Pro), STEF'S, SILVOLITE, STERLING, US SEAL, US TOOL, VICTOR-REINZ & WEIAND.
Many people make their engine choice based on the vacuum and idle characteristics of the engine. It can be absolutely critical to one's satisfaction to choose the correct idle type (cam size) for the engine. Most of us are happy with the sound and drivability of our "LOPEY" idle camshafts "BUT" some may find it too rough and some may find it not rough enough. Please put some thought into it!
For normal street use, we recommend either our "Mild, "Lopey", or "Choppy idle version engines. Our Mild idle has a hint of performance sound, good vacuum, and can be driven cross country. Our "Lopey" idle has a definitely noticeable performance sound and can be driven daily and short to medium trips. Our "Choppy" idle has the definitely performance "Chop" and can be driven daily but is not recommended for long trips or as primary daily drivers. Keep in mind that one horsepower per cubic inch is a good rule of thumb for a performance daily driver and the more horsepower per cubic inch, the less drivability. Also and maybe more importantly, larger cams sacrifice the lower RPM torque and horsepower. This lower RPM, 2000 to 4000, is where we mostly drive. This is where the fun and tire spin happens. Big cams make big power but are not as much fun for many of us.
"SMOOTH" idle is as smooth or almost as smooth as a stock OEM engine and has high manifold vacuum, 18 inches or more. These engines work well with the stock exhaust system and torque converter but all engines benefit from a good performance exhaust system and a higher stall torque converter. This is absolutely a true "Daily Driver" but more camshaft is needed for more power and the "Muscle Car" sound.
"MILD" idle can have a slight rumble and has very good manifold vacuum, 16 inches or more. These engines also work well with the stock exhaust system and torque converter. Again, a true "Daily Driver" with a hint of "Muscle" sound.
"LOPEY" idle is a well defined lope as in the lope or gallop of a horse, and will have good manifold vacuum, 14 inches or more. This is pretty much the "Muscle Car" idle of many cars of the 1960's and 1970's. These engines have the largest cam recommended for the stock torque convertor. They are the maximum in compression, camshaft size, intake manifold, and head runner volume recommended for every day driving and for using overdrive, and lock up torque converters. Although no true performance engine should be classified as a "cross country driver", this is as most cam and compression that we would recommend for occasional long distance driving. These engines make nice "Daily Drivers" that have a great performance idle.
"CHOPPY" idle is a very definite performance idle and will have a somewhat lower manifold vacuum, 9 to 13 inches. We recommend quality headers and a torque converter in the 1800 to 2800 RPM range. This is basically a rougher "Muscle Car" idle. They are daily drivers but not distance or primary drivers. We define these engines as our "Almost Daily Drivers".
"ROUGH" idle is rougher than "Choppy" and is for those who really want the a super Hot Rod sound and higher peak horsepower numbers. Also, they must be willing to tolerate the down side of these type street engines. With the "Rough" idle cam, the vacuum will be under 10". Also this engine will need headers and performance exhaust system. A 2800 RPM or higher torque converter is recommended. A vacuum canister or electric vacuum pump may be necessary. This engine is not recommended for daily driving, overdrive transmissions, or lock up torque converters because it may have a rough or jerking motion at lower RPM cruising.
"VERY ROUGH IDLE STREET/STRIP" engines have a very high duration and lift camshaft and have a very rough "Hotrod" or race type idle. These engines are slightly toned downed race engines. They will have very low manifold vacuum, need performance exhaust, and a torque converter with a lot of stall. Very light street driving only and 100% racing gasoline is recommended when WOT is in use.
All vehicles will perform better upon acceleration with a performance torque converter. We can advise you and supply you with the correct torque converter.
Many of our engines receive new aftermarket cylinder heads which flow much better than the stock OEM heads, therefore increasing the horsepower output significantly. "Stroker" engines have a crankshaft with a longer piston stroke than original. Some engines are all "Brand New". See the footnote column for each engine.
Our "Complete Engines" include the oil pump, oil pump screen, oil pan, oil filter adapter, oil filter, dipstick, timing cover, balancer, valve covers, intake manifold, and spark plugs.
Engines are expertly machined, balanced, blueprinted, plate honed, line honed, decked, and sonic tested. Engines are then assembled by a highly capable technician and spin tested with heated break-in oil with the proper additives. The oil pressure, compression and oil circulation is carefully verified.
To remove the possibility of our valued customers experiencing problems with break-in or initial problems of any kind, we dynamometer test "EVERY SINGLE" complete version using comprehensive "break-in" procedures including the correct break-in motor oil and oil additives. The actual dyno sheet for that particular engine showing the horsepower and torque at various RPM points is provided with the engine, no copies! A dyno session is not a 30 minute assembly line job, it takes most of a day per engine to do the right kind of job. Also we break open the oil filter after dyno testing and inspect for debris to ensure that the engine is perfect internally. Finally the engine is pressure tested at the crankcase for oil leaks and then painted. When provided or purchased, the carburetor and distributor will be verified and tuned to the engine to ensure a 'no hassle' installation, just install, fire it up and it is ready to go! Carburetors and distributors are notorious for not allowing the best horsepower and drivability. They can make a good engine look bad. The dynamometer does not lie! Always have your engine dyno tested with the carb and ignition you will be using no matter who builds it!
We guarantee the quality, dependability, and accuracy of our engines. Some engines are not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled vehicles.
Smooth, Mild, Lopey, and Choppy Engines come with a 12 month-12,000 Mile written warranty, also an optional 36 Month-36,000 Mile warranty is available. Rough idle engines carry a 90 day warranty and "Very Rough Street/Strip" engine carry a 30 day warranty. For the best performing and Highest Quality crate engines available, please call, fax or email us for more information or to place your order.
CALL: (800)-903-6446 (800-90-ENGINE)
NOTICE: Prices listed are subject to change without notice. Deposits made on special or custom jobs are non refundable after the job has begun! These engines require six to twelve weeks or more to complete depending on the engine. We do not rush our Performance engines. Please let us know from the start if you have a hard deadline. Please do not expect definite completion dates. Horsepower figures mentioned require that the user install the recommended performance parts and accessories such as carburetor, ignition system, and exhaust system for those figures to be accurate! Performance engines WILL be noisier than OEM stock engines especially when cold. This is due to centered pin pistons, extra clearances, and faster ramp lift camshafts! This cannot be avoided.